Eat Like a Tico
Author: Todd Hoskins Issue: 2023-07-19
Eat Like a Tico
by Todd Hoskins
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Food is the gateway to a culture's heart. As someone who was an urbanite for over two decades, I was accustomed to choice and global food options within walking distance. Even in our little lakeside hamlet in Michigan, we had Mexican and Asian markets where we could buy fresh tamales and bok choy.
In Costa Rica, the towns that are close to the ocean have an international population. We have neighbors from Peru, Brazil, Mexico, Canada, Denmark, England, Czechia, China, Italy, and Switzerland. But there are not enough nomads, residents, and travelers to warrant more than an Italian, Peruvian, and Brazilian restaurant. There are no markets with international ingredients within 30 minutes.
You pass through five towns between Paraiso, where we live, and Santa Cruz, our closest city about 40 minutes away (where there are two Chinese restaurants). In each of these towns is one, two, or three “sodas” where people gather to eat, drink, sometimes dance, and discuss what is happening in the area.
If you’re close to a tourist area, the *soda *might have a sign that says, “*Comida tipica,” *or “typical food.” If you’re in a zone with minimal *Gringos *you can just assume the soda serves *comida tipica. *What is typical food?
You have to begin with gallo pinto which is rice and beans stir-fried with some finely chopped peppers, onions, and cilantro. It’s served with fresh cheese, fried plantains, and optionally, eggs and/or meat. You get a little salsa picante (the Tico version) on the side. The name means “spotted rooster” which is supposedly what the beans and rice look like when plated. The flavors are delightfully well balanced when done well, which typically means using beans and rice leftover from last night.
Next is ceviche, which you can get in nearly any soda, but also from houses along the side of the road. All it takes is a fresh catch (shrimp, mahi mahi, and other white fish are common) and the right mix of chilis, citrus, coriander, onions, and garlic. I eat it spooned onto *patacones, *or fried green plantains, with some guacamole.
Third, you have *casados, *which can be translated as “married.” Some people think that’s due to the origins of wives sending their husbands a full lunch wrapped in a banana leaf. Others believe that it’s because of the flavor matches. I prefer the latter interpretation. The *casado *includes–you guessed it–beans and rice, plus some vegetables, salad, and some protein–chicken, beef, pork, or fish. It’s a staple of sodas.
It took me some time to appreciate these traditional dishes. When my partner was gone for a longer trip earlier this year, I set out to make a large batch of beans and rice that could last me a week. I solicited opinions on cooking beans the “Tico way” and received many, many ideas. One clear conclusion is that you don’t do it quickly.
By the sixth night, I didn’t think I could eat beans and rice again. I called a friend and we went out for a hamburguesa together (another favorite Tico food by the way). I decided I can’t eat the same food every day.
We knew that in moving here our gastronomic delights would have to shift. We have spent less time in the kitchen, and less money going out for meals since moving here. That wasn’t a decision. Life is more simple here, more elemental. Why would you want to fuss in the kitchen so much?
We are committed to good ingredients, nothing fancy, and lots of fresh fruit and ice cream. There's a certain magic that unfolds when you allow your taste buds to mingle with the local produce, spices, and traditions. It's like unlocking a secret code that reveals the heart and soul of a place. Costa Rican flavors are not usually loud or spicy. They are subtle and in harmony, much like my experience of Tico people.
If you travel to a resort town, you can have global options and cloth napkins. But that’s not what we’ve chosen. Eating like a Tico is not a sacrifice. It’s a different relationship with food.
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